DIY gunsmithing
 

One of the members here asked if I do gunsmithing work and would I be willing to work on his weapons. The basic answer was no. Having said that, here is what I told that member. I thought it might help everyone here who has NOT gotten a degree in gunsmithing, which I have. Goes well with my degree in computers, eh?

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I don't do gunsmithing for the public anymore. The reason why is I let my $1M libability insurance lapse (on purpose - it wasn't cheap).

I still work for half a dozen LEO officers/agencies. And another four or five guys that have been long time customers with more money than brains. And they are ALL guys like my veterinarian.

HAVING said all that, I will happily help YOU learn to fix your own weapons, if you would like.

Anytime you are having a problem or want to upgrade something, don't hesitate to contact me. I will tell you what's involved and whether or not you should actually attempt it. MOST gunsmithing work is really pretty simple.

Until you need machine shop work done. THEN I'll direct you to YOUR local gunsmith. But you will go in armed with the knowledge of EXACTLY what he's going to do and how much time it should take. From there he should be willing to give you how much he charges per hour for machine shop work.

I have ONE more suggestion. Purchase either the DVD or VHS tape for each weapon you own. There are lots of people who produce them. Then watch it. Over and over again. If I ever ran across a weapon I had never seen or worked on and there was a VHS tape on it, I would purchase it. I had a 13" TV/VHS tape player combo set up next to my bench. That way I could watch the tape. Run it back, watch it again. Run it back, watch it again. Until I WAS confident that I understood it.

It's like anything else. It's not hard, it's just knowledge you don't have in the begining. With the proper knowledge and tools you'd be surprised what you can accomplish.

Oh, and for all things GUNSMITHING go to www.brownells.com - they are the gunsmiths supplier.

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So, there ya go. And if someone has a question, I will ALWAYS be happy to help if I can.

jim

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

I'll bite.
How do I remove the front site on a Marlin 30 30 ?

Spuds:sheep:

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Ok, on page 174 of Firearms Assembly/Dissasembly Part IV: Centerfire rifles (revised edition) it says this:

http://goldismoney.info/forums/attac...1&d=1145985336

If you need more info, let me know.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

If you are going to work on your guns, get the right tools. Learn to grind a screwdriver bit to fit the filister head and not tear it up.

That Marlin site is very user friendly, others you have to drift the sight out to get to the second mounting screw.

The 3 vols of Gunsmith Kinks are good references, Jerry Kuhnhausen has written THE shop manuals for Smith & Wesson revolvers, Colt 1911, Mauser rifles, Garrand type rifles, and other popular guns. The NRA has some good gunsmithing guides.

Mel Tappan's newsletter had a column by Mason Williams, noted gunsmith, who discussed the various parts of popular survival firearms of the late 70's. He lists the parts most prone to breakage and wear for the 24 or so firearms covered. Having a parts kit for each of your guns is better than having to canibalize another firearm.

Brownells and Midway are two of the best sources for gunsmithing tools.
At one time you could order parts from many of the factories (except Ruger) Directly. Natchez Shooters Supply kept many Colt and S&W parts in stock.

The 1911 models are superb for many reasons, but chief among them is the Vast Availability of after-market parts. You can buy EVERYTHING you need to build a 1911 auto from scratch. There are about 100 firms making quality parts for these pistols, maybe more.

Brownells sells many spare parts for common firearms. Their catalog is free, and their website is pretty easy to navigate.

Just be sure you use the right tool to remove that front site base.
Good luck.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Close enough,I took off the shield over the sight,sure enough,there was 1 screw holding it on.

Cool,I had a peep sight installed,but he didnt finish the project and put on the fiber optic front site I wanted,will have to do that myself I guess.

Thanks a lot!

Spuds:sheep:

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Hey Wallew, great thread! What if any modification do you recommend for a 1911 .45? Im mostly interested in reliability in all weather situations...

Thanx, JD.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Run only ball ammo and you will never have a problem!

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

JS,
How much money you got? The truth is it depends. All weather situations? BUY an H&K Tactical. Used by Navy Seals. SOMETIMES.

It's basically like any tool, it depends on what you job you are going to be doing.

The 1911 .45 acp is one of the MOST modified pistols ever made. Go to www.brownells.com and see what they have. THERE ARE TON'S of stuff you can do to a 45.

The BEST advice I can give you is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE with the weapon and ammo of your choice.

If you want specifics about given mods, drop me an email and I will be HAPPY to give advice. BUT I will say that there are a million ways to go.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Wallew,
Here's a question for a gunsmith:
There are a lot of good old shotguns around with fixed chokes. Do gunsmiths usually own taps so that a Hastings choke or some other tight turkey hunting choke can be screwed in? Would this involve major machine work or is it a simple (inexpensive) task?
For example an older 1100 Remington, could it be shortened to 22" or so and put a replaceable choke on it. Let's assume the gun does not have a vent rib. There is little need to lug around a 28" barreled shotgun just to shoot a turkey.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

I guess it depends on the gunsmith. If they DO shotgun work, they SHOULD have the ability to run the correct TAP down the barrel.

I don't see any problems (other than perhaps recoil) for shortening a turkey shotgun. And dragging an extra 6 inches of barrel is not necessary. HOWEVER, on any auto shotgun there is an exhaust port that drives the recoil piston back down, which allows the auto shotgun to function properly. AS LONG AS you are not cutting below that port, you should be good to go. ANY good gunsmith should be able to show you where he/she would cut the barrel.

And just an FYI. I am a HUGE fan of older weapons. There are a lot of bargains out there if you know what you are looking for. I'm currently on the prowl for a Winchester Model 12 break down shotgun. I already own one. I will purchase a second one when I find the 'right' used one. Overall finish is no biggie, as I (or friends of mine) will refinish it, depending on which way I'm going to go. I even have an old Mossberg 500A that is old enough to NOT have a serial number.

I feel that a lot of the firearms produced today use questional manufacturing methods. Smith & Wesson has gone to a process call MIM for several internal parts. Molded (cast) parts. They rust and/or break, leaving your weapon non functional.

I own mainly old firearms. Even my Rem 700 BDL .308 is over twenty years old. But I bought it new, all those years ago. Still is a great rifle.

Two older shotguns. Four older CZ52's (as in MADE in 1952 - 1954). But I'm an old guy at 53, so I guess that explains it.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Just be aware that some older shotguns (and a few not so old) have barrerls too thin to run a tap down.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

That is SOO true. But ANY good gunsmith should be able to tell you whether he can or cannot tap the barrel. VERY GOOD TIP!!!

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

I need a trigger plate for a Belgian Browning Auto 5 hopefully in good shape. Anybody know of a shotgun wrecking yard? I could use a new barrel 12 guage if it is in very good shape. I was thinking of shortening mine but it has the ridge that runs down the top and would require a lot of work to do so. I will be parkerizing the weapon when I am ready to put back together.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Numrich IS the place...


http://www.e-gunparts.com/productsch...=0630zAUTO%205

hope that helps - and if they don't have it right now, keep checking back, because they buy old firearms ALL the time

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Thanks Wallew, Retail Price: $121.50
If I can not find a used one then that is what I may have to do. I just am not finding the Browning parts at the Gun Shows. Thanks for the WebPage, I bookmarked it. Have you ever Parkerized one? This is my beater and I just want to give it a new look and lower the maintainance on it.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Easiest and cheapest way would be to a have a gun refinisher/smith bead blast it and reblue it (in hot tanks with blueing salts). This gives a matt finish that doesn't rust as easily. It still would need the occasional oil. The bead blast and rebluing should be somewhat cheaper than a normal reblue as there is MUCH less prep work involved.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Thanks, I have stripped and re-blued weapons before, in fact I just got done going over a 98 mouser that I am really fond of.
On the browning I have several of them, I love the Auto action of the old Auto 5's. This is my roughest one and I want to make it my utility splatter gun. I would Rhino coat it if I thought it would hold up. I just want one that lays on the seat with me on the drives up and down the hills when I am hunting or prospecting. I don't want to worry about bumping it or it sliding off a rack I lean it on.
It will be my workhorse ole stand-by. How many people can take an old Belgian made Auto 5 and do that? This is why I will shorten the barrel also.
There are no shortages of shotguns around here.
Thanks.

Re: DIY gunsmithing
 

Actually ask for a rough grit blast and blue. I do this with all my working weapons. It actually look just like parkerizing. Which I have done. You literally have to grit blast it and then drop it in the parkerizing acid and it etches the phosphate onto the metal.

Grit blast and blue works better. And mine rarely need oiling. But we live in a dry climate.

Hope that helps.

Curtman,
Instead of Rhino lining, try using a flat black paint on the metal after sanding it or grit blasting it. You can always repaint it if it wears. It's a cheap finish that WILL withstand quite a bit of abuse. Don't forget to remove the wood furniture before spraying with paint. Unless you like the black wood look.

I do.